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Build Juan Sebastian Elcano (III): Our Modelers Teach You How to Assemble the Spanish Training Ship

Posted on February 2, 2023March 23, 2023 by Administrador DelBlog

Let’s go with the third part of the post if you want to build Juan Sebastian Elcano model ship with more video tutorials recorded by our modelers during its assembly. The model of the Spanish training ship Juan Sebastian Elcano / Chilean Esmeralda (22260) at 1:250 scale is ideal for your first experience on the naval modeling. Now, we remind you that you can also purchase the Elcano Gift Pack (22260L), which includes the kit with the brigantine schooner sailboat, its paints and some tools. It has a lower price than if the products are purchased separately. That being said… Let’s continue assembling this historic model with a pre-fabricated hull!

BUILD JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO: MASTS (PART II – A)

On Step 16, we continue to explain some of the most difficult phases when you are going to build Juan Senastian Elcano model ship: ‘Mats – Part II’. Take the eight PCL parts and one BW1 part -wire- and put them on your work table. Next, cut a small piece of wire (BW1) with a Professional Straight Cutting Pliers (27212). With a hand drill, make a 0.5 mm hole on the upper part of the stick (PCL) and apply our Cyanoacrylate for Porous Materials (27620), for sale separately, where the hole is. Insert the wire into it and bend it 90 degrees. With the help of a Stainless Steel Ruler (27069) and the aforementioned pliers, measure 0.7 mm and cut off the excess as seen on the video. Repeat the process with the remaining PCL parts.

Take the four parts S1 -sails- and arrange them on your workshop. With the help of a sewing needle, use the thread –part CT1– to sew part S1 -sail- to part PCL -mast-. Thread through the corner of the sail and around the stick as well with some Straight Fastening Tweezers (27020) and the previous drill. Continue sewing the sail with the needle and thread along the length of the mast. Knot at the end of the neck, apply cyano and cut the excess thread as shown on the video.

ASSEMBLY ELCANO MODEL SHIP: MASTS (PART II – B)

Well, it’s time for the next task. Look for one BR1 part and four BR2 parts, all rings. With a utility cutter, poke a small hole in the outer corner of the sail. Open part BR1 with two Needle Nose Pliers (27213) and insert the ring through the sail. After inserting it, close it again using the aforementioned pliers. Now, do this whole process again with the four BR2 parts on the opposite horizontal side of the sail -with respect to the placement of the BR1 part-, just as seen on the video. Repeat with the remaining three sails. It should look like this:

ASSEMBLY ELCANO MODEL SHIP: MASTS (PART II – C)

Once the previous stage to build Juan Sebastian Elcano model ship has been completed, take one of those sails and introduce the mast created on the previous post through the large rings. Then, take the wire of the mast with the sail that you had bent to 90ºand insert it into the hollow part provided for it, below the top. Thus the upper part of the sail remains fixed to the mast. On the lower area of the mast, take an M18 part and insert it. Apply cyano to adhere it and remove excess glue with paper. The final result should be this -repeat the process with the other three sails-:

Jar of cyano on hand! On the four holes of the deck to place the masts, apply adhesive and insert them. Use the steel rule to calculate the vertical 109 mm and to check the distance between masts. Also, it can help you position the masts while the cyan dries. The end… For now!

BUILD JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO MODEL SHIP: SHROUDS (PART I)

Step 17 when a modeler wants to build Juan Sebastian Elcano Model (22260), the Spanish training ship, talks about the ‘Shrouds’. Extract with a cutter and paint with off-white colour (27702) the eight WS1 parts. Grab one of these. With a pencil and a ruler, mark five equidistant points on the part. Put cyano on the part CT2 of 200 mm and glue it on the first marked point using Straight Fastening Tweezers (27020).

Repeat the process with the other three CT2 parts. On the last position marked with pencil, do the same thing with a 300 mm CT2 part. In total, there should be five threads attached to part WS1. Cut the excess of thread on one side of part WS1 with Thread Snips (27060). and paint off-white the glued part of the five threads with a brush.

Repeat this task again with the other seven WS1 part to get this:

It is time to glue those eight resulting parts. Take one and put cyano on the bottom. Glue the part to the edge of the hull, but be careful. The area where the threads are glued must look at the deck, that is, the part of the threads that are glued must not face the outside of the boat, but the inside. Repeat the process with the other seven parts so that it looks like this:

BUILD JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO MODEL SHIP: SHROUDS (PART II)

Take the longest thread -300 mm- from each of the parts and tie it around the tip of the nearest mast. Using a flat-grip plier, tie it securely by tying it into a knot and pulling the string so it is tight. Apply ciano to the knot made with the thread at the end of the mast and remove the excess of thread with Thread Snips (27060). Remember to repeat another three times this step on the other three mats.

Now do the same with the rest of the short threads -200 mm– but gluing them to the lower/interior part of the four tops. And finally, glue all the CT2 threads perpendicular to the already installed vertical threads. In this way, it will be ongrid mode. To do this, with patience, you must cut the threads with precision according to the height that you adhere them horizontally. And… Wow! Let’s have shrouds.

BUILD JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO MODEL SHIP: FIGUREHEAD & BOWSPRIT

We continue with Step 18 of Build Juan Sebastian Elcano model sailboat (22260). This is about the ‘Figurehead and Bowsprit’. Paint gold colour (27761) the part M19. Apply cyano to the inner bottom of the figurehead and stick it to the tip of the hull’s bow with your hands. Remember that if you want to place the Chilean emblem of the training ship Esmeralda, you must do the same with the part M20.

Then take the BSP part. With a ruler and pencil, mark the half of the part. Mark well with a cutter. With a manual drill and a 1 mm diameter bit, drill on the previously indicated place. Take a BW2 part and cut a 16 mm piece with Professional Straight Cutting Pliers (27212).

Take a BL part and surround the BSP part with your two wires. Help yourself with a Needle Nose Pliers (27213) for turning both ends of the wires around stick, tying the part to it. Get rid of excess wire once knotted to the stick. Repeat this process three more times on the BSP part. From the top point to where the hole is on the center of the stick. It is the turn of the part BW2, apply cyano in the centered hole made before and insert the part BW2.

By hand, fold down all four BL parts, apply cyano to the bottom end of the stick, and glue on the designated area. We already have bowsprit too!

MINIATURE REPLICA JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO SHIP: SAILS (PART I)

The ‘Sails – Part I’ is Step 19 of the video tutorial to build Juan Sebastian Elcano model ship. Take three parts S2, that is, three sails. Repeat the process you did on the ‘Masts – Part II’ section. In this case, the six parts are BR1 -small rings-. Place one part BR1 in one corner of the sail and the other five longitudinally and equidistantly on the other side.

Drill with a 0.75 mm hand drill the 4 masts at the height shown on the video. Pass thread -part CT2– through the five rings of the sail. Tie the sail with its thread to the top of the mast you are working on. Once the knot is done, apply cyano to it. Thread the other end of the sail string through the hole you just made on the next mast. Pull the thread until the thread and the sail is taut. Knot and cyano. Remove the rest of the thread with Thread Snips (27060). Repeat with the other two remaining sails.

Go back to the first sail placed, take more thread -part CT2-. Tie it to the first mast, above the top, at the height of the horizontal peak of the sail. Once tied, take it up to the second mast and knot it at the same height. Now the same thread, bring it closer to the third mast, and lastly to the fourth one. Help yourself to do this with Curved Fastening Tweezers (27021). Finally, put cyano on the fourth neck knot and cut the excess thread with our Thread Snips (27060).

MINIATURE REPLICA JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO SHIP: SAILS (PART II)

We continue with ‘Sails – Part II’, which is Step 20 of the construction of the model of the famous Spanish school ship (22260). Arrange a unit of parts S3, S4, S5 and S6, that is, sails. Take part S3, put nine rings -part BR1- on the longest side, and one on the corner. Then, take thread -CT2- and tie it at the end of the mast. Pass the line through the nine rings, tighten and knot it and glue it to the nose of the bowsprit previously installed. Repeat the same process with part S4, but with seven rings on the side and one on the corner. Remove excess string from the bowsprit of both sails. And the same with parts S5 and S6.

Next, more thread, this time, tie it to the point of the bowsprit, pass it through the metal -underneath the mast- and by the ring in the middle of the prow of the hull -the second-. Tie it there. Do the same with a second thread: knot it at the height of the rope of the third sail on the bowsprit, passes it through the upper ring and tie it. In all cases, remove the excess thread once tied. Repeat this process on the other side of the boat, so that the thread also enters through those rings. Finally, a third thread that will go through the lower ring on both sides of the bow.

Read the second part of the post…

Read the fourth and last part of the post…

Model Building Tips

Mississippi Model Set Up (II): Video Tutorials to Assemble the Wooden Paddle Steamer

Posted on May 19, 2022May 24, 2022 by Administrador DelBlog

We continue with the ‘Model Building Tips’ section and with the second part of the video tutorials for the set up of the King of the Mississippi model (20515). The wooden naval modeling kit of the paddle steamer at 1:80 scale represents a faithful replica of the original model. The assembly of this classic North American wooden boat from the 19th century is aimed at modelers with an intermediate level of skills on naval modeling.

On this post, first, our team of modelers will show you how to assemble the columns and the railings of the second deck. Second, how to work the windows and the doors. Then, how to handle and place the high-quality photo-etched decoration parts. Next, we will show you how to make the capstan base. And finally, our modelers friends will know how to decorate the chimneys of the steamboat. These videos are a great help during the construction of the King of the Mississippi model. Especially the most difficult parts. Go for it!

MISSISSIPPI MODEL SET UP: SECOND DECK COLUMNS AND RAILINGS

We pick up the video where we left off a week ago, when we built the columns and railings of the first deck. On this occasion, we turn to the existing ones on the second deck of the American paddle steamer scale model. This explanation corresponds to Section 14 of the digital instructions. We remind you that you can download them for free in the same product file of the King of the Mississippi.

Apply cyanoacrylate (27650) on one of the wooden columns of the railing. With the help of a reduced size square or bevel (27325), manipulate it until it is completely straight on the second cover, nothing crooked. Repeat the process with the remaining columns -four more- as shown on the video, placing them on the place provided for it. Obviously, before gluing them, they must already be varnished.

Next, we take the curved wooden base of the railing, apply cyanoacrylate to it and adhere it to the front space between the two columns. Help yourself with some straight tweezers (27204) for this whole process. Remember, beforehand, do not varnish the part where you are going to put the glue. Once your photo-etched railing is painted, add a few small drops of cyan to different spots on its underside. Using the same tweezers, carefully place it between the two columns. On top of this, take the wooden upper part, the handrail with the tweezers, paint it with cyan too and fix it to the upper part of the railing. Do the same process with the other curved railing and with the two straight sides. The result should be this:

WINDOWS AND DOORS ASSEMBLY SECOND DECK OF KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI

On this seventh video, another of the important processes for King of the Mississippi (20515) model set up. Specifically, the assembly of the windows and doors of all the rooms on the second deck. On the digital instructions, steps between 13 and 24 of Section 15.

Take a pointed needle nose pliers (27213). Fold the tabs of the photo-etched parts of the windows and doors. Paint them with brush and with acrylic water-based paint burnt umber color (27743). Help yourself to grab the part of nails with precision straight pliers (27204). With these, go placing each of the windows and doors. Gently press with your hands to make the lashes fit. Apply cyan to the back of the window and door for a stronger hold.

Work the photo-etched parts from the doors of the windows. Paint them with buff acrylic paint (27740). Use the aforementioned tweezers to make the task easier. With a brush very fine size 000 (17200C), burnt shadow paint, draw the grids on the front. Apply cyan to the back, where you haven’t painted, and using precision straight pliers, glue them to each of the sides of the window. Repeat the process with all the rest. Once they are in place, paint all the interior frames of windows and doors with a brush and burnt umber paint.

Finally, take the different acetate parts -there are six- and check that the size is correct. Put cyan on the wood, on the wall inside of the rooms, and glue the acetates with the tweezers and hands. To put the acetates on the curved parts of the bow and stern, use in this case a curved tweezers (27021).

It should look like this:

MISSISSIPPI MODEL SET UP: PHOTO-ETCHED DECORATIONS

We continue with the following video tutorial for the construction of the model King of the Mississippi (20515): photoen-etched decorations of the fourth deck. These steps appear on Section 21 of the digital instructions.

Paint them with a flat brush and off-white water-based acrylic paint (27702). Once dry, glue them with cyan and the help of your own hands on the wooden plank of the fourth deck -where the coffer goes-. Before joining one part to another and adding cyan to adhere them, file with a mini diamond file (27015-3) a little the extremes that will be fixed with the others. Repeat this action. When you have to put the last part, if you have left over because it is too long, mark with a pencil where you should cut it. Cut it with a cutting pliers (27211), file and glue carefully. Put cyano on all the balustrade supports and remove the excess with the point of a scalpel cutter (27019). Now, paint all the joints of the different parts with off-white color.

Apply cyano all over the edge of the deck wood plank where you are going to glue the wooden parts on the lower part of the balustrade. Take that base part in wood, previously painted, and glue it under the already placed photoengraving. Repeat the process with the other parts.

Once it is finished, it should be like this:

CAPSTAN BASE OF KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI MODEL SHIP

The ninth tip that we show you for the set up of the wooden model of the paddle steamer King of the Mississippi (20515) is the building of the capstan base. Steps 1-4 of Section 29 on the digital instructions. Let’s continue with this classic jewel of the ship modeling that It reminds us of literary characters like Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn, by Mark Twain.

Take the parts and paint them with a flat brush and off-black acrylic paint (27703). Use some precision straight tweezers (27204) to hold parts while painting. Glue a strip -previously painted- completely centered on the cover. Use a small centering ruler (27326) to make sure it sits perfectly straight in position. Next is the small star-shaped base part of the capstain. When it comes to gluing the four ribbons on cross shape and the rest on the shape of a star, also use an tiny square (27325). This way everything will be uniform. Continue repeating the process as seen on the video tutorial. Lastly, paint the edges of the star-shaped base part of the capstan with off-white.

When the modeller have done the task, it should look like this:

MISSISSIPPI MODEL SET UP: DECORATION OF CHIMNEYS

The tenth and last video tutorial refers to the decoration of chimneys. Steps 15 and 16 of Section 33 on the digital instructions for the set up of the magnificent wooden model of the King of the Mississippi, at scale 1/80 (20515).

Fold the photo-etched part look like some poles with the help of a flat-pointed grip pliers (27213). Give it a round shape, for example, using the handle of the scalpel cutter and your own hands. Using some curved fastening tweezers (27021), insert it into each of the two chimneys through the ‘rings’ half-closed you just created. Glue the part with cyanoacrylate so that it is completely fixed by pouring it on the inside of the aforementioned rings.

The end result should be similar to this:

We hope that these video tutorials that guide the modeler through some of the most precise or difficult parts of the assembly will help. Do not forget that you have, for sale separately, a King of the Mississippi Set of 18 Metal Figures (20515F) that will give life to your paddle steamer model. Likewise, you can also acquire the Specific Acrylic Paints Set (277PACK6) for this model, and forget about having to look for them.

Finally, if you want to have everything your modeling kit needs, treat yourself or surprise a loved one who loves naval modeling with the King of the Mississippi Gift Pack (20515L), which includes the model, the figures, the paints and some tools.

Read the first part of the post…