The metal figurines made by Artesanía Latina provide great realism to the wooden model ships where they are placed. They are the icing on the cake when the modeler has finished assembling any model on a naval scale. Currently, we have a wide assortment with different sets and crews sold individually that will be further expanded in the future. In this sense, many of our modelers friends have asked us on numerous occasions how to paint the figurines of the models. Well then, we are going to explain the process through a video tutorial made by our team of professional modelers.
But, first of all, we must remind you that, if necessary, you have to assemble or glue the two parts with which any of the figurines are formed. To do this, we strongly recommend that you use any of the cyanoacrylates from Artesanía Latina -sold separately- to obtain an optimal result -with the spray accelerator drying is faster-. If you wish, you can apply the glue with one of the two adhesive applicators included in the Set of Micro Saws, Applicators and Scriber (27302), for sale separately.
Let’s start painting the figurines thanks to the fantastic video masterclass of our professionals, for which you have to prepare them first.
HOW TO PAINT FIGURINES FOR MODEL SHIPS: PREPARATION BEFORE PAINTING
We start the explanation of how to paint figurines for model ships. Grab a Round Diamond File (27015-3) to remove mold lines and marks. File the entire profile of the figure, since it is the place where it is inserted and glued to the mold where it is stored.
Now, prepare the surface of any object you don’t need -for example, an unused compact disc or DVD- a quick putty. To do this, mix dense cyanoacrylate with talcum powder. Help yourself, for example, from the applicator to mix both products once they are applied. Apply that mix also with the applicator all over the figurine.
The next step is to create a base thanks to our Support for Painting Scale Model Figures (27640), where you can place the figurine so you don’t touch it while preparing and painting it. Take or create a round and a cylindrical part, both of wood. Put cyano in the center of the round piece and glue the cylindrical piece right in the center of the circle, where the adhesive is. Next, glue, again with cyano, the feet of the figurine to the cylinder.
The last phase of the preparation prior to showing you how to paint figurines for model ships. It is time to apply a lightlayer of white primer (27701) using any of our high quality synthetic hair brushes.
SET OF PAINTS AND SINGLE COLOURS FOR FIGURINES
Before starting with the explanation of the video on how to paint figurines for model ships, we offer you two sets of acrylic paints for figurines -for sale separately-, choose according to your needs. On the one hand, there is the Basic Set (277PACK14), with 6 paint jars of 20 ml. each with the following colors: Off White, Off Black, Royal Blue, Deep Yellow, Vermilion and Basic Skin. On the other, the Advanced Set (277PACK15), with 12 jars: Off White, Off Black, Bright Red, Ice Yellow, Cocoa Brown, Dark Red Leather, Aluminum, Gold, Navy Blue, Bright Green, Basic Skin and Sunny Skin.
Of course, you can also purchase the colors you require from our extensive catalog of single acrylic paints with over thirty different colors… which ones do you like best?
HOW TO PAINT FIGURINES FOR MODEL SHIPS: PAINTING PROCESS
We will detail in advance how to paint figurines for model ships. First, paint all the visible parts of the character’s skin with a round brush and an basic skin color (27770). Right after, apply a general eyeshadow with a slightly darker tone diluted in water –sunny skin (27771)-.
Now, on a palette or other surface, you must have the color cocoa (27741). Add a bit of diluent (27700) -put it with a syringe to dose- and mix it with it. Remove excess paint and sharpen the tip of the bristles of the brush by painting on a piece of paper. Paint the flesh parts of the character as a hard shadow, also outlining the color. Repeat the process on the lighter parts, first, on the rest of the character as a whole -especially on his clothes-.
The moment has come when you have to paint the clothes with his colors and their details. We recommend that if the character is wearing multiple garments, one on top of the other, paint the outermost layer first. All you have to do is look at the video of our modeler to appreciate the rest of the painting, already to the taste of the fan. Here is the final result.
We dive into the last part of the Elcano ship model instructions for its assembly. With these video tutorials made by our modelers, we put the finishing touch to the set up of the Spanish school ship model Juan Sebastián Elcano / Chilean Esmeralda (22260) at 1:250 scale. As we mentioned before, it is a faithful miniature replica excellent for beginners on the hobby of naval modeling.
ELCANO SHIP MODEL INSTRUCTIONS: SAILS (PART III – A)
We continue with ‘Sails – Part III’, which is Step 21 of the instructions for assembling the Elcano ship model (22260).
Arrange one unit of parts S7, S8, S9 and S10, that is, more sails. Take part S7, and sew it with a needle cotton thread –part CT1– around the stick part Y1, from top to bottom. When you finish sewing, help yourself with some Straight Fastening Tweezers (27020) to tie the knot on the stick.
Now, with a cutter, drill two small holes in the two opposite corners of the stick. Insert the two BR1 parts -two rings- into these. Take a part BL and thread -part CT1-. Put the thread through the hole and around part BL. Tie a knot at the end with the help of the aforementioned tweezers. The thread should be fully stretched through the hole and around the part BL. Apply Dense Cyanoacrylate for Porous Materials on the knot and allow to dry.
Next, you will have excess thread on both sides of the knot. First, completely cut one of the threads, while the other leave a few centimeters long. Don’t cut it all the way. Second, also using the tweezers, tie that thread with the BL part to the left side of the stick and tie the knot with cyano. Third, if there is excess thread, remove it with a cutter. Repeat all these actions on the other end of the stick with another BL part.
The result should be this:
ELCANO SHIP MODEL INSTRUCTIONS: SAILS (PART III – B)
Then go through the entire process again with the other SAILS. For the sail part S8, you will need one Y2 part, two BR1 parts and two BL parts. For the part S9, one Y3 part, two BR1 parts and two BL parts. And for the S10, one part Y4, two parts BR1 and four parts BL. Take again the sail part S7 and thread part CT1. At one end of the stick, tie a knot with plenty of thread left over from both sides. Apply cyano and let dry. Repeat the process on the other end of the stick.
Take the S7 sail. Use a Curved Fastening Tweezers (27021) to pass the thread -part CT1- with a needle above the mast top, as seen on the video. The goal is the sail can be already hanging on its mast. Make the knots as shown, apply a little of cyano and cut the excess thread with the Thread Snips (27060). The sail already stays in place.
Repeat the process with the S8 sail. Once hung, it has to be attached to the S7 sail with thread. Tie them by means of the two BR1 parts that are on the sail. Passing the CT1 thread through the BR1 ring and, right after, tie it to the end of the stick. Repeat the process also for the other end of the pole with the other BR1 ring.
Do the same with the S9 sail, but this time tying it to the S8 sail. And finally, with the S10 sail, knotting it to the S9. This should be the final look with all the sails in place.
ELCANO SHIP MODEL INSTRUCTIONS: SAILS (PART IV – A)
Well, it’s time for the next task. Step 22 of the assembly instructions for the ship model Elcano (22260). This one is about ‘Sails – Part IV’.
Take the four sails parts S11. Now take one and, using a utility knife, drill three holes in each of the three corners of the sail. Then, insert one of the three parts BR1 -rings- into each hole. Open each part BR1 with two Needle Nose Pliers (27213) and insert the ring through the sail. After inserting it, close it again using the aforementioned pliers. As we have discussed, repeat the process with the other three sails.
Again, take a sail part S11. Insert thread through the BR1 ring found on the most pointed part of the sail, at the top and tie a knot. Cut the excess of one of the ends of the thread and pass the other end through the mast. Then bring the thread to the hull, tighten it, tie it off and glue it with cyano. Watch the video for it.
Now, thread CT1 through the outermost ring BR1. Begin to tie a knot and leave a hole to insert it into the bottom sail pole. Insert into the stick and close the knot. Do the same with more thread through the remaining BR1 ring, the third one, the one closest to the mast. In this sense, the sail part S11 will be attached to the lower sail.
ELCANO MODEL SHIP INSTRUCTIONS: SAILS (PART IV – B)
Below that bottom sail, place a PCL part. Bend the wire that has the stick on it and attach it to the mast. Use the pliers to twist the wire around the mast.
Take CT1 thread and pass it through the eye of the BR1 part of that lower sail to make a knot and pass it through the PCL stick. The sail will be attached to the mast. Remember to apply cyano to all the knots you make.
Thread CT1 through the ring on the hull and tie it to the stick so that it is taut. The rest of the thread, pass it through the mast top and tie it to the deck. Take a look at the video to run this process, which you will need to repeat for the other three sails.
ELCANO SHIP MODEL INSTRUCTIONS: SAILS (PART V)
Step 23 of Elcano ship model instructions (22260) for the assembly of Spanish school ship, is about the ‘Sails – Part V’. You need to pay close attention to the video so that you can build the rest of the sails.
JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO MODEL SHIP: DECKS (PART III – A)
We continue with Step 24 of the Elcano ship model instructions for its assembly. This is about ‘Decks – Part III’.
Take two M8 parts and glue them parallel to the foredeck as shown on the video. Next, take ten units of the part DM4. With the help of cyano and grip pliers, take five of these and glue each one next to the other on the deck area shown. Then turn the boat 180º and do the same for the other five on the other side of the deck.
Once this task is done, take a Stainless Steel Ruler 150 mm (27069). Use it to mark with a pencil on the edge of the hull two points with an equidistance of 18 mm. From each of these two points, with the ruler, measure and mark two points 6 mm inside the deck. Drill with a small hand drill at the two points marked on the deck.
Take an M6 part. Apply a drop of cyano and insert it with tweezers into one of the two holes made. Repeat the process with another M6 part and insert it into the other deck hole.
JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO MODEL SHIP: DECKS (PART III – B)
It is time to use thread part CT2 for the placement of part P2, previously painted with Off-White Acrylic Paint (27702). First, thread the thread through the two holes in part P2. Second, take the other end of the thread and feed it through an M6 part. Do the same with the other end. When you are inserting the two ends of the thread into each M6 part, insert them from the outside to the inside.
Next, make a knot in each of the two inserted ends so that the part P2 does not come loose. Apply a little cyano to each one. Repeat the process on the opposite side of the boat.
JUAN SEBASTIÁN ELCANO ASSEMBLY: HANDRAILS AND PROPELLER
The ‘Handrails and Propeller’ is Step 25 of the video tutorial for building the model of the Elcano ship. Take two PE3 parts, previously painted with off-white paint. Apply cyano to each of the tips of the base that will be inserted. Place each of the two PE3 parts on the edge of the hull and the deck with the help of a Curved Fastening Tweezers (27021). There are two in the bow.
Then, take a PE4 part, also previously painted with off-white colour. Bend it with your hands so that it takes on the curved shape of the stern. Once you have the shape, apply cyano to each of the corners and glue the part with both hands to the edge of the deck. Take another PE4 part and tack it right next to the one you placed earlier. Put it behind the lifeboat. Repeat the process on the other side of the hull.
Finally, the part M11 -propeller- enters the scene. Apply cyano to the tip to be inserted and place it with your hands and a pair of tweezers on the hull.
JUAN SEBASTIÁN ELCANO ASSEMBLY: LAST DETAILS TO FINISH (PART I)
We continue with the final step of the Elcano ship model instructions for its assembly with the ‘Last Details’, which is Step 26. Arrange a unit of the part WD3 with a diameter of 2×35 mm, previously painted off-white. Later, take the part FL1 -Spanish flag- and with the help of a cutter, remove the sticker protector.
Place the center of the sticker -it has a stripe drawn- on the stick and close the sticker with your hands and the handle of a scalpel cutter until both sides of the flag stick together. Stick it in the hole in the aft deck provided for it.
It is the turn of the part PE5 Elcano / PE6 Esmeralda -metal sheet with the name of the ship-. First, paint it with Hull Green Colour (27751). Then, sand the entire edge of the sheet with a utility cutter until you can see the metal of the sheet. Apply cyano and glue it to the stern of the boat, just below the flag.
JUAN SEBASTIÁN ELCANO ASSEMBLY: LAST DETAILS TO FINISH (PART II)
Now, take the two parts M17 -anchors-, previously painted with Off-Black Colour (27703). Place them into the two holes provided for this with the help of tweezers and a few drops of cyano. Finally, there is the part PE7 / PE8 -name of the ship for the base-. Also paint it with off-black colour, sand the edges with a cutter until you see the metal part and, with cyano, glue it to the exhibition base.
Model Ship Elcano / Esmeralda Built by our modeling friend Girish Khandagale.
We remind you that you can also purchase the Elcano Gift Pack (22260L), which includes the kit with the schooner sailboat, its paints and some tools. It has a lower price than if the products are purchased separately.
Let’s go with the third part of the post if you want to build Juan Sebastian Elcano model ship with more video tutorials recorded by our modelers during its assembly. The model of the Spanish training ship Juan Sebastian Elcano / Chilean Esmeralda (22260) at 1:250 scale is ideal for your first experience on the naval modeling. Now, we remind you that you can also purchase the Elcano Gift Pack (22260L), which includes the kit with the brigantine schooner sailboat, its paints and some tools. It has a lower price than if the products are purchased separately. That being said… Let’s continue assembling this historic model with a pre-fabricated hull!
BUILD JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO: MASTS (PART II – A)
On Step 16, we continue to explain some of the most difficult phases when you are going to build Juan Senastian Elcano model ship: ‘Mats – Part II’. Take the eight PCL parts and one BW1 part -wire- and put them on your work table. Next, cut a small piece of wire (BW1) with a Professional Straight Cutting Pliers (27212). With a hand drill, make a 0.5 mm hole on the upper part of the stick (PCL) and apply our Cyanoacrylate for Porous Materials (27620), for sale separately, where the hole is. Insert the wire into it and bend it 90 degrees. With the help of a Stainless Steel Ruler (27069) and the aforementioned pliers, measure 0.7 mm and cut off the excess as seen on the video. Repeat the process with the remaining PCL parts.
Take the four parts S1 -sails- and arrange them on your workshop. With the help of a sewing needle, use the thread –part CT1– to sew part S1 -sail- to part PCL -mast-. Thread through the corner of the sail and around the stick as well with some Straight Fastening Tweezers (27020) and the previous drill. Continue sewing the sail with the needle and thread along the length of the mast. Knot at the end of the neck, apply cyano and cut the excess thread as shown on the video.
ASSEMBLY ELCANO MODEL SHIP: MASTS (PART II – B)
Well, it’s time for the next task. Look for one BR1 part and four BR2 parts, all rings. With a utility cutter, poke a small hole in the outer corner of the sail. Open part BR1 with two Needle Nose Pliers (27213) and insert the ring through the sail. After inserting it, close it again using the aforementioned pliers. Now, do this whole process again with the four BR2 parts on the opposite horizontal side of the sail -with respect to the placement of the BR1 part-, just as seen on the video. Repeat with the remaining three sails. It should look like this:
ASSEMBLY ELCANO MODEL SHIP: MASTS (PART II – C)
Once the previous stage to build Juan Sebastian Elcano model ship has been completed, take one of those sails and introduce the mast created on the previous post through the large rings. Then, take the wire of the mast with the sail that you had bent to 90ºand insert it into the hollow part provided for it, below the top. Thus the upper part of the sail remains fixed to the mast. On the lower area of the mast, take an M18 part and insert it. Apply cyano to adhere it and remove excess glue with paper. The final result should be this -repeat the process with the other three sails-:
Jar of cyano on hand! On the four holes of the deck to place the masts, apply adhesive and insert them. Use the steel rule to calculate the vertical 109 mm and to check the distance between masts. Also, it can help you position the masts while the cyan dries. The end… For now!
BUILD JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO MODEL SHIP: SHROUDS (PART I)
Step 17 when a modeler wants to build Juan Sebastian Elcano Model (22260), the Spanish training ship, talks about the ‘Shrouds’. Extract with a cutter and paint with off-white colour (27702) the eight WS1 parts. Grab one of these. With a pencil and a ruler, mark five equidistant points on the part. Put cyano on the part CT2of 200 mm and glue it on the first marked point using Straight Fastening Tweezers (27020).
Repeat the process with the other three CT2 parts. On the last position marked with pencil, do the same thing with a 300 mm CT2 part. In total, there should be five threads attached to part WS1. Cut the excess of thread on one side of part WS1 with Thread Snips (27060). and paint off-white the glued part of the five threads with a brush.
Repeat this task again with the other seven WS1 part to get this:
It is time to glue those eight resulting parts. Take one and put cyano on the bottom. Glue the part to the edge of the hull, but be careful. The area where the threads are glued must look at the deck, that is, the part of the threads that are glued must not face the outside of the boat, but the inside. Repeat the process with the other seven parts so that it looks like this:
BUILD JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO MODEL SHIP: SHROUDS (PART II)
Take the longest thread -300 mm- from each of the parts and tie it around the tip of the nearest mast. Using a flat-grip plier, tie it securely by tying it into a knot and pulling the string so it is tight. Apply ciano to the knot made with the thread at the end of the mast and remove the excess of thread with Thread Snips (27060). Remember to repeat another three times this step on the other three mats.
Now do the same with the rest of the short threads -200 mm– but gluing them to the lower/interior part of the four tops. And finally, glue all the CT2 threads perpendicular to the already installed vertical threads. In this way, it will be ongrid mode. To do this, with patience, you must cut the threads with precision according to the height that you adhere them horizontally. And… Wow! Let’s have shrouds.
BUILD JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO MODEL SHIP: FIGUREHEAD & BOWSPRIT
We continue with Step 18 of Build Juan Sebastian Elcano model sailboat (22260). This is about the ‘Figurehead and Bowsprit’. Paint gold colour (27761) the part M19. Apply cyano to the inner bottom of the figurehead and stick it to the tip of the hull’s bow with your hands. Remember that if you want to place the Chilean emblem of the training ship Esmeralda, you must do the same with the part M20.
Then take the BSP part. With a ruler and pencil, mark the half of the part. Mark well with a cutter. With a manual drill and a 1 mm diameter bit, drill on the previously indicated place. Take a BW2 part and cut a 16 mm piece with Professional Straight Cutting Pliers (27212).
Take a BL part and surround the BSP part with your two wires. Help yourself with a Needle Nose Pliers (27213) for turning both ends of the wires around stick, tying the part to it. Get rid of excess wire once knotted to the stick. Repeat this process three more times on the BSP part. From the top point to where the hole is on the center of the stick. It is the turn of the part BW2, apply cyano in the centered hole made before and insert the part BW2.
By hand, fold down all four BL parts, apply cyano to the bottom end of the stick, and glue on the designated area. We already have bowsprit too!
MINIATURE REPLICA JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO SHIP: SAILS (PART I)
The ‘Sails – Part I’ is Step 19 of the video tutorial to build Juan Sebastian Elcano model ship. Take three parts S2, that is, three sails. Repeat the process you did on the ‘Masts – Part II’ section. In this case, the six parts are BR1 -small rings-. Place one part BR1 in one corner of the sail and the other five longitudinally and equidistantly on the other side.
Drill with a 0.75 mm hand drill the 4 masts at the height shown on the video. Pass thread -part CT2– through the five rings of the sail. Tie the sail with its thread to the top of the mast you are working on. Once the knot is done, apply cyano to it. Thread the other end of the sail string through the hole you just made on the next mast. Pull the thread until the thread and the sail is taut. Knot and cyano. Remove the rest of the thread with Thread Snips (27060). Repeat with the other two remaining sails.
Go back to the first sail placed, take more thread -part CT2-. Tie it to the first mast, above the top, at the height of the horizontal peak of the sail. Once tied, take it up to the second mast and knot it at the same height. Now the same thread, bring it closer to the third mast, and lastly to the fourth one. Help yourself to do this with Curved Fastening Tweezers (27021). Finally, put cyano on the fourth neck knot and cut the excess thread with our Thread Snips (27060).
MINIATURE REPLICA JUAN SEBASTIAN ELCANO SHIP: SAILS (PART II)
We continue with ‘Sails – Part II’, which is Step 20 of the construction of the model of the famous Spanish school ship (22260). Arrange a unit of parts S3, S4, S5 and S6, that is, sails. Take part S3, put nine rings -part BR1- on the longest side, and one on the corner. Then, take thread -CT2- and tie it at the end of the mast. Pass the line through the nine rings, tighten and knot it and glue it to the nose of the bowsprit previously installed. Repeat the same process with part S4, but with seven rings on the side and one on the corner. Remove excess string from the bowsprit of both sails. And the same with parts S5 and S6.
Next, more thread, this time, tie it to the point of the bowsprit, pass it through the metal -underneath the mast- and by the ring in the middle of the prow of the hull -the second-. Tie it there. Do the same with a second thread: knot it at the height of the rope of the third sail on the bowsprit, passes it through the upper ring and tie it. In all cases, remove the excess thread once tied. Repeat this process on the other side of the boat, so that the thread also enters through those rings. Finally, a third thread that will go through the lower ring on both sides of the bow.
We continue with the ‘Model Building Tips’ section and with the second part of the video tutorials for the set up of the King of the Mississippi model (20515). The wooden naval modeling kit of the paddle steamer at 1:80 scale represents a faithful replica of the original model. The assembly of this classic North American wooden boat from the 19th century is aimed at modelers with an intermediate level of skills on naval modeling.
On this post, first, our team of modelers will show you how to assemble the columns and the railings of the second deck. Second, how to work the windows and the doors. Then, how to handle and place the high-quality photo-etcheddecoration parts. Next, we will show you how to make the capstan base. And finally, our modelers friends will know how to decorate the chimneys of the steamboat. These videos are a great help during the construction of the King of the Mississippi model. Especially the most difficult parts. Go for it!
MISSISSIPPI MODEL SET UP: SECOND DECK COLUMNS AND RAILINGS
We pick up the video where we left off a week ago, when we built the columns and railings of the first deck. On this occasion, we turn to the existing ones on the second deck of the American paddle steamer scale model. This explanation corresponds to Section 14 of the digital instructions. We remind you that you can download them for free in the same product file of the King of the Mississippi.
Apply cyanoacrylate (27650) on one of the wooden columns of the railing. With the help of a reduced size square or bevel (27325), manipulate it until it is completely straight on the second cover, nothing crooked. Repeat the process with the remaining columns -four more- as shown on the video, placing them on the place provided for it. Obviously, before gluing them, they must already be varnished.
Next, we take the curved wooden base of the railing, apply cyanoacrylate to it and adhere it to the front space between the two columns. Help yourself with some straight tweezers (27204) for this whole process. Remember, beforehand, do not varnish the part where you are going to put the glue. Once your photo-etched railing is painted, add a few small drops of cyan to different spots on its underside. Using the same tweezers, carefully place it between the two columns. On top of this, take the wooden upper part, the handrail with the tweezers, paint it with cyan too and fix it to the upper part of the railing. Do the same process with the other curved railing and with the two straight sides. The result should be this:
WINDOWS AND DOORS ASSEMBLY SECOND DECK OF KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI
On this seventh video, another of the important processes for King of the Mississippi (20515) model set up. Specifically, the assembly of the windows and doors of all the rooms on the second deck. On the digital instructions, steps between 13 and 24 of Section 15.
Take a pointed needle nose pliers (27213). Fold the tabs of the photo-etched parts of the windows and doors. Paint them with brush and with acrylic water-based paint burnt umber color (27743). Help yourself to grab the part of nails with precision straight pliers (27204). With these, go placing each of the windows and doors. Gently press with your hands to make the lashes fit. Apply cyan to the back of the window and door for a stronger hold.
Work the photo-etched parts from the doors of the windows. Paint them with buff acrylic paint (27740). Use the aforementioned tweezers to make the task easier. With a brush very fine size 000 (17200C), burnt shadow paint, draw the grids on the front. Apply cyan to the back, where you haven’t painted, and using precision straight pliers, glue them to each of the sides of the window. Repeat the process with all the rest. Once they are in place, paint all the interior frames of windows and doors with a brush and burnt umber paint.
Finally, take the different acetate parts -there are six- and check that the size is correct. Put cyan on the wood, on the wall inside of the rooms, and glue the acetates with the tweezers and hands. To put the acetates on the curved parts of the bow and stern, use in this case a curved tweezers (27021).
It should look like this:
MISSISSIPPI MODEL SET UP: PHOTO-ETCHED DECORATIONS
We continue with the following video tutorial for the construction of the model King of the Mississippi (20515): photoen-etched decorations of the fourth deck. These steps appear on Section 21 of the digital instructions.
Paint them with a flat brush and off-white water-based acrylic paint (27702). Once dry, glue them with cyan and the help of your own hands on the wooden plank of the fourth deck -where the coffer goes-. Before joining one part to another and adding cyan to adhere them, file with a mini diamond file (27015-3) a little the extremes that will be fixed with the others. Repeat this action. When you have to put the last part, if you have left over because it is too long, mark with a pencil where you should cut it. Cut it with a cutting pliers (27211), file and glue carefully. Put cyano on all the balustrade supports and remove the excess with the point of a scalpel cutter (27019). Now, paint all the joints of the different parts with off-white color.
Apply cyano all over the edge of the deck wood plank where you are going to glue the wooden parts on the lower part of the balustrade. Take that base part in wood, previously painted, and glue it under the already placed photoengraving. Repeat the process with the other parts.
Once it is finished, it should be like this:
CAPSTAN BASE OF KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI MODEL SHIP
The ninth tip that we show you for the set up of the wooden model of the paddle steamer King of the Mississippi (20515) is the building of the capstan base. Steps 1-4 of Section 29 on the digital instructions. Let’s continue with this classic jewel of the ship modeling that It reminds us of literary characters like Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn, by Mark Twain.
Take the parts and paint them with a flat brush and off-black acrylic paint (27703). Use some precision straight tweezers (27204) to hold parts while painting. Glue a strip -previously painted- completely centered on the cover. Use a small centering ruler (27326) to make sure it sits perfectly straight in position. Next is the small star-shaped base part of the capstain. When it comes to gluing the four ribbons on cross shape and the rest on the shape of a star, also use an tiny square (27325). This way everything will be uniform. Continue repeating the process as seen on the video tutorial. Lastly, paint the edges of the star-shapedbase part of the capstan with off-white.
When the modeller have done the task, it should look like this:
MISSISSIPPI MODEL SET UP: DECORATION OF CHIMNEYS
The tenth and last video tutorial refers to the decoration of chimneys. Steps 15 and 16 of Section 33 on the digital instructions for the set up of the magnificent wooden model of the King of the Mississippi, at scale 1/80 (20515).
Fold the photo-etched part look like some poles with the help of a flat-pointed grip pliers (27213). Give it a round shape, for example, using the handle of the scalpel cutter and your own hands. Using some curved fastening tweezers (27021), insert it into each of the two chimneys through the ‘rings’ half-closed you just created. Glue the part with cyanoacrylate so that it is completely fixed by pouring it on the inside of the aforementioned rings.
The end result should be similar to this:
We hope that these video tutorials that guide the modeler through some of the most precise or difficult parts of the assembly will help. Do not forget that you have, for sale separately, a King of the Mississippi Set of 18 Metal Figures (20515F) that will give life to your paddle steamer model. Likewise, you can also acquire the Specific Acrylic Paints Set (277PACK6) for this model, and forget about having to look for them.
Finally, if you want to have everything your modeling kit needs, treat yourself or surprise a loved one who loves naval modeling with the King of the Mississippi Gift Pack (20515L), which includes the model, the figures, the paints and some tools.
The building process of ship and aircraft models is one of the fundamental actions of modeling in general, and of the naval modeling specifically. That is why, for our scale models, Artesania Latina team of modelers and designers record, create and edit demonstration videos during their construction. The objective? Facilitate our client friends the Mississippi ship model assembly, as is the case that concerns us on this post. Thus, they can clearly see different particular work moments in which expert help never hurts. So today we propose some tricks so that your faithful miniature replica of the King of the Mississippi paddle steamer, at 1/80 scale, is perfectly finished through our video tutorials.
MISSISSIPPI SHIP MODEL ASSEMBLY: BOAT FRAMES AND DOORS
On this first video of the assembly of the Mississippi model, we focus on the frames and doors of the North American steamboat. We teach how to varnish and how to glue these elements. Steps 43 to 47 of section 5 On the digital instructions. Take a look!
Using a flat brush and a vise grip, paint the door with satin oak stain. Next, with a round brush and sapele dye, the door frames. If any of the frame pieces are a bit large, sand them down with our sanding block. Next, apply cyanoacrylate to each of the frame pieces and glue them together using the pliers. Press a little with your hands to fix them better.
Now check that the door fits through the frame. Take the metal trim part from the door window with the pliers, and paint it with a burnt shadow paint. Stick it to the door and then the acetate part -the transparent window- on top. Apply cyan to all three sides of the door and adhere it to the model ship. With this we finish the explanation of the first video of the Mississippi ship model assembly of Artesania Latina. From the most beautiful and highest quality faithful miniature replica of the paddle steamer.
The second video of help for the Mississippi ship model assembly at 1/80 scale refers to the lining of the deck, we mean, deck planking. Steps from section 7 of the instructions.
Take the wooden plank and a ruler. Place the ruler right in the middle of it, and with a pencil mark the center lengthwise. Next, in the center of the sheet, place a protractor and mark where the 45º are on each side of it. Next, use a pencil and a smaller ruler to draw the straight lines of those angles: a kind of elongated ‘M’ will be drawn. Continue with the process as shown on the video until you have drawn all the lines.
Stick with cyanoacrylate the small strips with that M shape along and across the sheet. Make a round hole for the mast with a utility knife in the area where the battens have covered it and sand with a small file to remove burrs. Turn the iron over, holes and internal tabs that have been covered, open them. Cut all the outer excess of the sheet and pass the sanding block along all the sides. Glue with cyanoacrylate all the edges of the cover.
KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI PADDLE WHEEL CONSTRUCTION (PART ONE)
Let’s go with the third video of the audiovisual guide for the Mississippi ship model assembly. Construction of the paddle wheel, symbol of this type of steamboat. In the instructions, this video corresponds to sections 9 and 34.
Take the different parts, apply cyanoacrylate where you need to stick them and fit them into the tabs provided for it. Use the sanding block to prepare the surface and glue two small ribbons on the inner sides. With a cutter also remove leftovers. File all the pieces. Subsequently, paint with transparent satin varnish and a flat brush all the pieces already fitted and glued. The sides, meanwhile, with oak-colored satin stain varnish.
Thread the motor cable through the two wooden grommets. Then place the motor on these. Stick the fixing wedges so that it is totally immovable. Take three small washers and glue them together, the smallest should go in the middle, repeat the process. Help yourself with straight pliers. Insert the stick through the lateral circumference of the base. Before inserting it through the second one, insert the three small circles already attached. Next, each of the parts that will make up the wheel. And, finally, the other three small circumferences adhered, after introduce the stick through the other circumference of the base.
KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI PADDLE WHEEL ASSEMBLY (PART TWO)
Fix the four wheels with the other many pieces created for that reason (without gluing them). Take the two elastic bands and tighten them. Glue with cyanoacrylate the strips that will make the blades of the wheels. Remove both the rubbers and the fixing pieces. Paint the pistons with acrylic paint (off black).
Using tweezers and cyanoacrylate, glue the parts of the rungs as shown in the image. The rectangular rungs belong to the straight part of the ladder, the wedge-shaped rungs to the curved part. Once the rectangular ones and the first wedge have been glued, glue the wooden ‘bar’ on the inner side at the height of the wedge rung. Proceed carefully up the steps. If burrs remain, remove them with a cutter.
Paint them with acrylic water-based paint (buff). Take the two metal pieces of the railing and paint them too with acrylic paint (off white) and a flat brush. Put cyan on all the sides of the steps – first on the straight ones – and glue the railing. Shape the curved part with your own hands. Now apply cyan on the side steps and glue the curved part of the ladder. Repeat the process on the other side of the ladder. Glue the two wooden handrails onto the railing. Paint them with oak-colored varnish.
BUILD THE FIRST DECK COLUMNS OF THE KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI
Today’s last video clearly explains how to assemble the columns of the first deck.
With a ruler and a pencil mark the points where you want to put the columns. Take the column and apply cyan to the two ends. Glue it down and attach it to the model. Check that it is straight with a square. Repeat the process with all the columns checking that the distance between them is the same and that they are not crooked.
We encourage modelers who still do not have this indispensable 1/80 scale model of the paddle steamer King Of The Mississippi (20515) to assemble it… And now as a novelty you can also acquire the Gift Pack of the King of the Mississippi (20515L)! It brings, in addition to the model, figurines, paints and some very useful tools.
We continue this week with the second post to teach how you can develope the construction of the Santa Maria model (22411-N), the well-known caravel (nao) in wood at 1/65 scale. We specify on video the parts of the assembly that can be more complicated or remarkable due to the level of detail for our modelers friends. Last week we left it explaining the assembly of the rails and barrels. Now we return to this audiovisual guide with the capstans and the cannons.
HOW TO BUILD THE CARAVEL CAPSTANS AND CANNONS
On the audiovisual instructions for 1/65 scale Santa Maria wooden model construction, we now present Chapter 9: ‘Assembly of the Capstans’. First, varnish with your brush the outer parts to then apply cyanoacrylate (27650) and glue the three parts that make it up. Second, insert them and… Done!
Chapter 10 deals with the ‘Assembly and Decoration of the Cannons’ on this video guide for the construction of the Santa Maria model. First, use one of our cutters to extract parts of the photo-etched plate and to remove the remains. Once removed, glue the four U-shaped details with cyanoacrylate on each of the four corners of the two sides of the gun carriage part. Second, insert some cyanoacrylate into the four existing holes in the large part, then insert the four eyebolts into these.
Now, place or glue the cannon on top of the gun carriage -your choice-. Take a thread and begin to carefully pass it through the eyebolts so that the barrel fastening is tight and beautiful. If you need it, help yourself in this task with a curved fastening tweezers. Finally, tie the end of the thread and cut off the excess.
SANTA MARÍA MODEL CONSTRUCTION: PAINTING LANTERN, NAMEPLATE AND DOORS
The following demonstrative videos deal with the finishes of the 1/65 scale model of the Santa María caravel, specifically, with the painting of various parts. In Chapter 11 we will see how to ‘Painting the Lantern’. To be able to work comfortably, embed the lantern in a stick or punch. With a flat brush, apply the paint carefully. We remind you that you can use the Set of Paints for Caravels and Galleons (277PACK8), for sale separately, with all the necessary colors to make your model perfect.
We move on to Chapter 12 with the ‘Painting of the Nameplate for Exhibition Base’ on the following video for Santa Maria model construction. Once the modeler has the plate out of the photo-etched plate, take some straight tip precision tweezers to hold it. Using a flat brush, start to apply the paint without excess paint on the brush or plate. Scrape a round wooden stick with a cutter until you get a point like any pencil. Proceed to remove the paint that is on the letters with that tool that has been created. Do the same with the license plate frame. The letters and the frame will be gold while the background will be colored.
In Chapter 13 we will watch the ‘Painting the Doors’. Tape the door to the end of a wood part so it doesn’t move while you paint. Have a small amount of the two paints you are going to use on a small plastic. Soak the flat brush and remove the excess on a paper towel. Apply brown and black with the flat brush to make it look like wood grain.
SANTA MARIA MODEL CONSTRUCTION: MASTS REINFORCEMENTS AND SAILS DECORATION
The last two videos of the audiovisual guide forconstruction details of Santa Maria model demonstrate how to carry out two tasks related to the propulsion of the caravel. The masts and the sails. Chapter 14 teaches the ‘Masts Reinforcements with Thread’. Take the thread and tie it to the mast as shown on the video. Using straight-nose pliers, tighten the thread wherever you see slack. Take the two ends of the thread with your hands and pull. Cut the excess thread with a cutter.
The last one is Chapter 15, here we show the ‘Sails Decoration’ process. Carefully remove the cross from its support. Take a parts of flat cardboard larger than the sail, place the sail on top and stick it to it with masking tape so it doesn’t move. Place the cross on top of the sail and use the new Micro Centering Ruler (27326) to check the measurements and that it is centered. With the cross already centered on the sail, take a pencil and draw the outline of the cross on the sail. Take a small round brush, and fill in the entire silhouette of the cross with the red paint.
We are done with these video tutorials to help the modeler in the construction of the Santa Maria model kit at 1/65 scale (22411-N). This kit of naval modeling will make you enjoy many moments of joy and satisfaction. Do not forget that, in addition to selling the model alone, we also have the fabulous Santa Maria Model Gift Pack (22411-L). Find out!
Our ‘Model Building Tips’ section of the blog helps our modeling friends know how to build many of our scale models and to manipulate the tools. In this case, we are going to show an audiovisual guide for the Santa Maria model assembly at 1/65 scale (22411-N). The wooden caravel with which Christopher Columbus discovered America. Surely, it is one of the best-selling faithful miniature replicas in the world every year.
So the Artesania Latina‘s modelers team has created a series of video tutorials at our YouTube Playlists. Not only the assembly of the Santa Maria model, but also many others ships and airplanes. We are going to explain to you from now how to work with the most complicated parts to execute during the construction process of the famous caravel -it really is a nao-.
SANTA MARIA MODEL ASSEMBLY: SIDE WALLS AND BOW PARTS
In this Chapter 1 of the fifteen included in this assembly guide of the Santa Maria model (22411-N) we are going to deal with the ‘Placement of the Side Walls’. For this step, the modeler needs quick drying dense cyanoacrylate (27650). The cyano applicator is included in this set (27302). Once applied, you must press the wooden part until it is fully adhered. Start with the central part to later glue the back and the front.
We go to the bow from Chapter 2 with the ‘Forecastle Bulkhead Planking’ of this guide for Santa Maria model assembly at 1/65 scale. The modeler must once again use cyanoacrylate, in addition to any universal cutter (27044) from our catalog of cutting tools for modeling. In this way, you will be able to cut the leftover wooden parts once they are glued.
We continue on the bow assembly of Santa Maria caravel scale model with Chapter 3 and the ‘Bow Deck Outline’. Prior to placing the three parts, modelers must first paint or varnish them with our brushes and airbrushes. After painting them, you must cut the corners diagonally with the cutter so that they fit perfectly when gluing them with cyanoacrylate.
Chapter 4 deals with ‘Bow Deck Assembly’. Before putting the part that you have made in the previous step, place without glue the two wooden cylinders that serve for its proper positioning. Apply cyanoacrylate to the entire frame or edge of the bow deck and insert the piece. Press it without excessive force until you notice that it has adhered. Carefully remove the two cylinders.
SANTA MARIA CARAVEL CONSTRUCTION GUIDE: RUDDER AND DEADEYES
The Santa Maria model assembly, a 1/65 scale model by Artesania Latina, now focuses on the rudder. Specifically, Chapter 5 shows the ‘Rudder Hinges Placement’. Mark with a pencil the places where you want to place the hinges. Take each of these and press it on the place you have marked previously until it takes the shape. Insert a punch through the hinge holes and make a small hole. By that same place and with the help of a professional needle nose pliers (27213) take one of the rivets or nails and insert it by pressing with the pliers. Once inserted, you can fix it better with gentle strokes using our modeler’s hammer (27017).
Continue by cutting three parts of wooden round dowels with a cutter. Use the glue applicator to put cyanoacrylate around these. Finally, insert them into the holes of the hinges with the help of some professional precision tweezers with ultra fine tip (27204).
It is time to watch the ‘Deadeyes Assembly in Chainwales’ in Chapter 6. Take a bolt with its metal part and apply cyanoacrylate on the metal. Place it and mark with a small drill where you want to place the nail. Then insert the nail with the pliers and press. Repeat the process with all the deadeyes.
SANTA MARIA MODEL ASSEMBLY: HANDRAILS AND BARRELS
The Chapter 7 teaches modelers how to set up the ‘Handrails’. Take one of these and mark with a pencil the leftovers that you want to cut so that the ends are diagonal for placement. Proceed to cut with the cutter. Sand these ends with the sanding block (27014) so there are no burrs. Apply cyan to the bases of the upright posts and glue the railing to the foredeck. Varnish it last.
The last video of Santa Maria model assembly that we watch in this post -we continue in the next one- is the one from Chapter 8: ‘Barrels Making’. Using a utility knife, split the barrel support part in two and remove any excess. Apply cyanoacrylate to the curved area of the bracket where the barrel sits. Peg the barrel into the bracket along one of the horizontal lines on the first. Do the same with the other barrel. Do the same process with the other piece of the bracket as well. With the help of precision pliers, take the thread and insert it through all the holes as a grip and decoration.
If you can’t wait for the next post of Santa Maria model assembly to start building it, we have a surprise for you. One of the news for 2022 on Artesania Latina catalog are the Gift Packs. In this sense, we present to all our modelers friends the Santa Maria Model Gift Pack(22411-L).
In addition to the 1/65 scale model of the Santa Maria caravel (22411-N), the pack brings a set of metal figurines (22411-F) and its specific paints set (277PACK8). As gifts, a bottle of white glue, sanding block, brush, tweezers and cutter. An unmissable opportunity!
We continue this week on the blog with the second part of the post on the set up of the Messerschmitt BF109G model kit at 1/16 scale. It is a useful video guide for all our client friends. Through this, the modeler can more easily build this luxurious faithful miniature replica of the German fighter of the World War II.
To the delight of the modeler, this modeling kit has a tab system that allows the assembly of the aircraft structure almost without the use of glue. Precisely, its metal parts come in stainless steel photo-engraving plates and in injected die-cast. With that said, let’s build it.
BF109G MODEL SET UP: RIGHT WING
First, it must be said that we continue with Messerschmitt BF109G model set up (20356), specifically, with the correct assembly of the ‘Right Wing’First Part in the Chapter 10. Steps 198-22 of the instructions for its construction. To do this, you can continue using the same modeling tools discussed in the first part of the post.
Second, we finished building the ‘Right Wing’ with Part Two, Chapter 11. The steps on the DVD instructions for this scale model are from 223 to 251.
FRONT LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY
The great realism of the fighter plane modelMesserschmitt BF109G (20356) is one of his big bets. To achieve this, for example, the replica has mobile parts such as the already explained cockpit and the manual retractable landing gear. In this sense, in Chapter 12 of the Assembly Diary, we now break down how to properly build the ‘Front Landing Gear’, Part One. Steps located between numbers 252 and 269. At this time, the modeler must incorporate a new tool to the previous ones:
We deal with the ‘Engine’, First Part, in Chapter 13 of the videographic guide for assembling the metal and photo-etched model of the German legend Messerschmitt BF109G. Steps from 270 to 296.
Finally, take a look at the video to finish building the ‘Motor’ with the Second Part of the explanation about how to assemble it, in Chapter 14. Steps from 297 to 321.
BF109G MODEL SET UP: ELECTRONICS
From this moment, we reveal how to assemble some of the funniest parts: the ‘Machine Guns and Electronics’ of the model.
The Messerschmitt BF109G modeling kit includes another kit but withelectronics with a low-rev motor that gives movement to the propeller. But, in addition, it comes with LED position lights on the wings, tail and… On the very detailed dashboard! To achieve this movement and lighting, three AAA batteries are required, not included in the kit.
To conclude, Chapter 17 and the last video for the precise Messerschmitt BF109G model set up makes reference to the existing steps since the 362: ‘Engine Cowling and Exhibition Base’.
Thanks to the expertise of our modeler friends and these illustrative assembly instructions, after the Messerschmitt BF109G model set up it should look like this.
PAINTS FOR FINISHES AND GIFT PACK BF109G
Obviously, the best finishes are achieved with the best paints. In this case, Artesania Latina has created a Specific Set of Acrylic Paints for Messerschmitt BF109G (277PACK5), for sale separately. 12 jars of quick-drying water-based paints in the following colors: off white, off black, royal blue, deep yellow, buff, cocoa brown, dark red leather, green FS34226, aluminum, gold, copper and grey RLM66. We remind you that in our catalog you can find a wide assortment of brushes and from airbrushes.
We show two different ways to acquire this jewel of aircraft modeling. The first, buying only the modeling kit here.
The second, a fantastic Gift Pack (20356L) with the metal and photoetched model of the Messerschmitt BF109 and its set of paintings. As gifts, another smaller vintage wooden model of the same fighter, precision screwdrivers set (45 in 1), professional straight cutting pliers and professional needle nose pliers.
A thousand possibilities and teachings to build this extraordinary and unrepeatable scale model. Finally, if you want to read the first part of the post of the guide for Messersmichtt BF109G model set up, click here.
Artesania Latina’s modelers and designers know that any help is good for the construction of any scale model. That is why on this post we are going to show you through different videos how to carry out the assembly of the model Messerschmitt BF109G (20356) at 1/16 scale. A beauty, a jewel of the aircraft modeling made of metal and photo-etched for which we have edited 16 videos in which we show the precise way of its assembly. Join us on this flight! Fasten your seat belts!
So… Let’s go! On this Chapter 1 of our Assembly Diary, we explain the steps between 1 and 9 of the instructions: ‘Intermediate Fuselage Frames and Their Details’. Previously, the modeler must carefully extract the different parts of the plate and identify them for their correct positioning. Whattools for modeling we recommend to get this goal?
MESSERSCHMITT BF190G MODEL ASSEMBLY: TAIL AND FUSELAGE
Later, on Chapter 2 of the Assembly Diary for the Messerschmitt BF109G model assembly -steps from 10 to 34-, we talk about how to build ‘The Tail and The Fuselage’ of the German fighter (First Part).
For this phase, the tools that the modeler needs are the same as the previous ones, but these three must be added:
We continue on Chapter 3 of the Assembly Diary for the Messerschmitt BF109G model assembly -steps from 35 to 57- with the Second Part explaining how to build ‘The Tail and Fuselage’ of this faithful miniature replica of the aircraft of World War II. For this moment, the modeling tools that are required are the previous ones, in addition to this one:
To finish this area, the ‘Landing Gear and Tail’ is the title and the subject shown on Chapter 4 for the assembly of the scale model Messerschmitt BF109G -steps from 58 to 79-. The modeler is not forced to incorporate any new tool here, she/he can continue using the ones already mentioned.
BF109G PRECISION COCKPIT ASSEMBLY
One of the beauties of the 1/16 scale model of the German aircraft called Messerschmitt BF109G is its extremely detailed ‘Cockpit’. The Chapter 5 of Artesania Latina’s Official Assembly Diary -steps from 80 to 101 of the instructions on DVD format- deals with how to build that area of the plane First Part. Our modeling friends don’t have to add any new modeling tools now either.
Next, Chapter 6 reflects the Second Part of the ‘Cockpit’ construction. Specifically, we reveal how to carry out steps 102 to 125 of the assembly guide that contains this fabulous modeling kit made of the highest quality metal and photo-etched parts.
And, finally, the Third Part of the video that speaks about the ‘Cockpit’ is the Chapter 7 for an optimal construction of the Messerschmitt BF109G scale model. Here are the steps between 126 and 147. At this stage, we will also need…
We move on to the correct assembly of the ‘Left Wing’Part One on Chapter 8. Steps 148-173 of this detailed audiovisual guide for the construction of the model Messerschmitt BF109G.
Here, Part Two about the assembly of ‘Left Wing’, Chapter 9, steps 174-197.
Next week we will return to each step that is still missing for the construction of this model. Meanwhile, there is much more information interesting about the BF109G by clicking here.
